Hi Tim: Yes, quite strange. I went looking for a 50s SpringTwin Instruction manual without success. I did look at several 50s G9 manuals and saw the lack of a seal cup on the brake drum side. Your assembly order is exactly as specified. It may well be possible that what we are seeing is the normal consequence of “tolerance stack-up” where a bit here and a bit there equal a small hiccup. Plumstead did not build Swiss watches.
Is this a ‘new to you 1st time assembly’ or a strip, service and re-assembly?
It sounds to me as if the lip on the brake backing plate enters the groove on the edge of the drum, creating the desired Labyrinth-Seal. Looking at several photos I have, and saw that the brake shoes ride a bit proud of the backing plate surface, and hence, “most” the friction material will protrude inside the drum, and the brake should function properly.
Quickly moving into theoretical: Any part of the friction NOT running on the drum is lost braking. Taking this for granted, I can see where an designer might give up a small percentage of braking efficiency to avoid designing a brake that would allow a shoe to wear a groove in the drum and create disassembly problems in the future.
Were it my bike: IF I was satisfied the Labyrinth-Seal is sufficient to keep out small bits of rock and sand, I’d assemble the brake, clamp the front brake on hard to center the shoes (temporarily secure handlebar lever with Bungie), tighten the outer nut(s), and be done with it.
If I had access to an extra washer or two (11913) I might disassemble the bearing pack and add one or two to the brake drum side. From memory, these washers are about 0.040” (1mm) thick.
Best wishes for your project… and the New Year. And please let us all now how you proceed.
Ciao,
Dick Casey
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On Jan 4, 2018, at 6:38 AM, Tim Deaves deaves.tim@... [Ajsmatchless] <Ajsmatchless@...> wrote:
Hi Dick,
Yes, pretty much. The brake plate has a chrome cover to it. This covers wraps around the brake plate on the cover's circumference. This lip extends into a similar groove in the circumference of the brake drum. This lip and groove forms a sort of seal to keep debris out of the drum - so you can't actually see the shoes. If the chrome cover was not there, then you could. My original illustration with the ruler shows mimics the brake plate being positioned on the drum. The adjuster nut should not be so far proud of the straight edge. The amount the nut protrudes is going to be equal to the gap between the edge of the drum and the brake plate.
By the way. I did answer you previous email last night about the order of the parts and a view of the other side. See below. I don't think it made it to the Forum. Could be the photos were too big. Who knows.
Hi Dick,
Here are a couple of photos;
1. The parts cleaned and ready for reassembly - except the seals are the old seals. So the order of parts on the circlip side are,
Circlip
Flat plain washer
Spacer around the oil seal and oil seal
Flat plain washer
Bearing. I know it was the bearing as I could see some numbers stamped on the side of it.
All washers were checked for flatness, etc. before reassembly. The spacer was the same thickness as the seal..
(This is a one of many photos I have for a website I am building showing the fun and games with this particular bike).
2. The other side of the hub showing the adjuster and lock ring (secured). You can just see the steel oil seal cup around the spindle. All looks good to me.
I did find an exploded view of later front hub that shows that there is an oil seal cup on both sides. (Fig 33 on page 65 of a 1950 Springtwin Instruction Book). But if I put a cup on the circlip side, that will cause the spindle to poke further out - once I press the outer bearings through the hub. I want the spindle to go the other way - back towards the adjuster.